The Predictable Rise and Fall of the American Resort Town: How to Read the Curve Before It Reads You
The Predictable Rise and Fall of the American Resort Town: How to Read the Curve Before It Reads You
There is a conversation happening right now, in offices and group chats across the United States, about a town that is "just starting to blow up." Someone's colleague went there last fall. Someone's sister-in-law has been three times. The restaurants are excellent and not yet crowded. The accommodations are affordable and characterful. The locals are still genuinely friendly. You should go, the conversation concludes, before everyone else figures it out.
This conversation has been occurring, in various forms, since the colonial period. The towns change. The conversation does not. And what the conversation never includes — because no one in it has read the history — is the knowledge of what comes next. The history is unambiguous on this point. The cycle is not merely common. It is essentially universal.
Saratoga Springs, New York, is the most instructive American case study available, because it has completed the full arc more than once and is currently somewhere in the middle of completing it again. Its story is worth reading carefully, because whatever destination your colleagues are currently discovering is already on the same curve.
Discovery: The Moment Before Anyone Calls It a Destination
The mineral springs at Saratoga were known to the Haudenosaunee long before European contact, and the earliest colonial accounts describe the waters with the combination of wonder and acquisitiveness that would characterize every subsequent phase of the town's development. The springs were medicinal, or so the early visitors believed. They were also remote, which meant that reaching them required effort and resources. This combination — genuine natural value plus the barrier of difficulty — is the consistent signature of the discovery phase.
In the late eighteenth century, Saratoga began attracting a small number of wealthy visitors who could afford the journey from New York and Philadelphia. The accommodations were rudimentary. The roads were poor. The experience was genuinely arduous, and the arduous quality was part of its appeal: it signaled that you were someone with both the means and the constitution to undertake it.
This is the discovery phase in its pure form. The destination has real value — natural, cultural, or experiential — that has not yet been widely commodified. The visitors are few enough that their presence does not yet alter the character of the place. The locals have not yet organized their economy around serving guests. The experience feels like finding something rather than purchasing something.
Every destination begins here. The question is how quickly it moves forward.
Glamour: The Phase That Produces the Postcards
By the 1820s and 1830s, Saratoga Springs had entered what might be called the glamour phase — the period that produces the images a destination carries for the rest of its life. Grand hotels rose along Broadway. The Congress Spring and the High Rock Spring became social institutions. The wealthy of the Eastern Seaboard arrived each summer in sufficient numbers to create a genuine seasonal society, with its own rituals, hierarchies, and scandals.
This is the phase that appears in the history books and the vintage photographs. It is the period of the destination's maximum cultural prestige — when to have been there is to have been somewhere. The Saratoga of the 1860s and 1870s, with its thoroughbred racing, its casino, and its parade of Gilded Age wealth along the piazza of the United States Hotel, was not merely a resort. It was a social institution that defined American elite culture for a generation.
The glamour phase is seductive precisely because it appears stable. The destination seems to have found its permanent identity. In fact, the glamour phase contains the seeds of its own dissolution. The prestige that draws the elite draws, with a slight lag, everyone who wishes to be adjacent to the elite. Infrastructure expands to accommodate them. Prices rise. The character that produced the prestige begins to be diluted by the volume of people seeking it.
Overcrowding: When the Discovery Becomes the Problem
By the late nineteenth century, the railroad had made Saratoga accessible to a much broader class of American traveler. The grand hotels were still grand, but the town around them had become something different — louder, more commercial, more various. The old social arbiters who had defined Saratoga's character found themselves sharing space with people they had not anticipated. The response, as it has been in every comparable situation in American resort history, was withdrawal.
The wealthy began looking elsewhere. Newport had already positioned itself as the more exclusive alternative. Bar Harbor in Maine offered remoteness and a different kind of natural grandeur. The social migration away from Saratoga was not sudden but it was inexorable, driven by the same logic that had originally created the resort: desirability attracts volume, and volume destroys the desirability that attracted it.
This dynamic repeats with such consistency across American resort history that it should be considered a law rather than a pattern. Atlantic City followed the same arc, from elegant seaside resort to mass-market destination to decline, over roughly a century. The Catskill resort region in New York moved through the same phases. The Outer Banks of North Carolina, the Florida Keys, the mountain towns of Colorado — each has followed, or is following, the same curve at its own pace.
The overcrowding phase is identifiable by several markers: the arrival of chain businesses that displace independent ones, the conversion of residential properties to short-term rentals, the appearance of infrastructure designed for throughput rather than experience, and the beginning of local ambivalence about visitors. The destination is still drawing people, often in its largest numbers ever. But the people who defined its character have already begun to leave.
Decline and the Long Pause
Saratoga's decline, when it came in the early twentieth century, was compounded by Prohibition, which eliminated a significant portion of the resort economy, and by the Depression, which eliminated much of what remained. The grand hotels closed or burned. The social season contracted. The town entered a decades-long period of diminished expectations.
This phase — the long pause — is where the historical record becomes genuinely interesting, because it reveals something that the discovery-to-decline narrative obscures: decline is not an ending. It is a clearing. The removal of the economic pressure that accompanied mass visitation allows a destination to rediscover, or reinvent, its actual character. Property becomes affordable. Residents return who value the place rather than the commerce it generates. Artists and craftspeople and restaurateurs who could not afford the destination during its peak find it accessible during its trough.
This is the phase that creates the conditions for the next discovery. And this is the phase that the colleague in your office, recommending a town that is "just starting to blow up," has almost certainly misidentified as a beginning when it is, in fact, a recovery.
Reading the Curve in Real Time
Saratoga Springs today occupies an interesting position on the arc — revived, genuinely prosperous, and possessed of enough historical identity to resist some of the homogenizing forces that have reshaped comparable destinations. The racing season still defines the summer. The Victorian architecture survived the decline intact. The town has the advantage of having been through the cycle before, which provides a kind of institutional memory that purely new destinations lack.
But the pattern is visible there too, for anyone looking at the long record. The question worth asking of any destination — including the one your colleagues are currently recommending — is not "is this place good?" but "where on the curve is this place?"
The markers are readable. A destination in the late discovery phase shows independent businesses, genuine local character, affordable accommodation, and visitors who found it through personal networks rather than algorithmic recommendation. A destination in the glamour phase shows rising prices, increasing media attention, and the first appearance of businesses designed specifically for visitors rather than residents. A destination entering overcrowding shows the chain businesses, the short-term rental conversions, and the local ambivalence described above.
Knowing where a destination sits on the curve does not tell you whether to go. It tells you what to expect when you arrive, and how long the version of it you are seeking is likely to persist. The history of American resort towns is, among other things, a precise and predictive instrument. The curve has been running long enough that its shape is not in question. Only the location of your destination upon it remains to be determined — and the record provides the tools to make that determination with reasonable confidence.
The town your colleagues are talking about is somewhere specific on this curve. The only question is whether you know enough history to find it.